Day 2 - Regrets by Spyros Thalassinos

Making of the photo-manipulation Day 2: Regrets

Hi! Today I will be sharing with you the process of creating my photo-manipulation Day 2: Regrets!

Day 2: Regrets was a part of a 7 artworks project, i had created a while back, based on quotes.

This one was inspired by the quote of Maria Robinson:

Nobody can go back and start a new beginning,
but anyone can start today and make a new ending.

The process here is displayed in high speed since the photo-manipulation consists of a lot of images and took about 2 hours in real time, but even so , it should give you a good idea of the steps involved.

And here is the finished image!
Day 2 - Regrets by Spyros Thalassinos

Day 2 – Regrets by Spyros Thalassinos

Hope you enjoyed this post, and looking forward to hearing your impressions and comments! See you next time!

The amazing song playing in the video is:

 “I need your love” by Scott McLean

Article publié pour la première fois le 03/09/2012


Learn to shoot and create awesome HDR images

Today we have 5 videos and 5 books that will help you get started with HDR. For those unfamiliar with the term HDR. HDR or HDRI allows a greater dynamic range between the lightest and darkest areas of an image than current standard digital imaging methods or photographic methods.

This wide dynamic range allows HDR images to represent more accurately the range of intensity levels found in real scenes, ranging from direct sunlight to faint starlight, and is often captured by way of a plurality of differently exposed pictures of the same subject matter.

According to Wikipedia:

“High-dynamic-range imaging (HDRI or HDR) is a set of methods used in imaging and photography to capture a greater dynamic range between the lightest and darkest areas of an image than current standard digital imaging methods or photographic methods. HDR images can represent more accurately the range of intensity levels found in real scenes, from direct sunlight to faint starlight, and is often captured by way of a plurality of differently exposed pictures of the same subject matter.

HDR methods provide higher dynamic range from the imaging process. Non-HDR cameras take pictures at one exposure level with a limited contrast range. This results in the loss of detail in bright or dark areas of a picture, depending on whether the camera had a low or high exposure setting. HDR compensates for this loss of detail by taking multiple pictures at different exposure levels and intelligently stitching them together to produce a picture that is representative in both dark and bright areas.

HDR is also commonly used to refer to display of images derived from HDR imaging in a way that exaggerates contrast for artistic effect. The two main sources of HDR images are computer renderings and merging of multiple low-dynamic-range (LDR) or standard-dynamic-range (SDR) photographs. HDR images can also be acquired using special image sensors, like oversampled binary image sensorTone mapping methods, which reduce overall contrast to facilitate display of HDR images on devices with lower dynamic range, can be applied to produce images with preserved or exaggerated local contrast for artistic effect.”

two ships passing in the sunset by Rick Seidel

two ships passing in the sunset by Rick Seidel


In this round up will see some videos with tips on capturing HDR images with your DSLR camera, but also how to create them in Photoshop using Merge to HDR pro feature, or fake them in Photoshop using HDR toning!

So lets get started!

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Article publié pour la première fois le 09/12/2013

Insectuality by Trevor Henry

Macro tips and resources for beginners

Today we have 5 very interesting and informative videos on macro photography, as well as links to other resources that you might find useful in your journey to become a macro photography expert! But first let’s begin with a definition of the term from Wikipedia:

Macro photography, invented by Fritz Goro, and is extreme close-up photography, usually of very small subjects, in which the size of the subject in the photograph is greater than life size (though macrophotography technically refers to the art of making very large photographs). By some definitions, a macro photograph is one in which the size of the subject on the negative or image sensor is life size or greater. However in other uses it refers to a finished photograph of a subject at greater than life size.

The ratio of the subject size on the film plane (or sensor plane) to the actual subject size is known as the reproduction ratio. Likewise, a macro lens is classically a lens capable of reproduction ratios greater than 1:1, although it often refers to any lens with a large reproduction ratio, despite rarely exceeding 1:1.

Apart from technical photography and film-based processes, where the size of the image on the negative or image sensor is the subject of discussion, the finished print or on-screen image more commonly lends a photograph its macro status. For example, when producing a 6×4 inch (15×10 cm) print using 135 format film or sensor, a life-size result is possible with a lens having only a 1:4 reproduction ratio.

Reproduction ratios much greater than 1:1 are considered to be photomicrography, often achieved with digital microscope (photomicrography should not be confused with microphotography, the art of making very small photographs, such as for microforms).

Due to advances in sensor technology, today’s small-sensor digital cameras can rival the macro capabilities of a DSLR with a “true” macro lens, despite having a lower reproduction ratio, making macro photography more widely accessible at a lower cost. In the digital age, a “true” macro photograph can be more practically defined as a photograph with a vertical subject height of 24 mm or less.

So lets get started! If you are an advanced macro photographer you might still find something useful info in these videos, and of course don’t hesitate to comment on with your tips and techniques!


WonderLand by Nadav Bagim

WonderLand by Nadav Bagim

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Article publié pour la première fois le 30/10/2013

Photoshop basic corrections

Image correction basics: Straighten, Crop, Sharpen and Reduce Noise

Hi folks! In this video round up we’ll get started with the basics of image correction. We’ll see some quick tips on how to straighten images with the ruler and the puppet wrap tool.

For the very beginners we also have a quick presentations of the crop tool, and finally we’ll see how we can sharpen an image with the high pass filter, and how to deal with the noise.

If these sound unfamiliar and confusing, then you will definitely find the videos enlightening and useful. So let’s get started!

Learn Adobe Photoshop – Crop Tool

In this video, Mahalo expert Justin Z. gives a brief overview of what the Crop tool does and how it can be used to “trim the fat” off your photographs.

Straighten Images with Ease using puppet wrap

While Photoshop CS5’s Puppet Warp is a powerful way to wildly manipulate an image, some of its best uses are much more subtle. For example, you can now perfect your photos by straightening a horizon line or architectural detail, pin-by-pin:

Straightening Photos using Photoshop ruler

In this tutorial Nicole demonstrate two different methods you can use to straighten a photo using the Ruler tool in Photoshop.

Photoshop CS5: Noise Reduction (in camera raw)

Photoshop CS5 brings a great new way to reduce noise in your images. Noise Reduction within Camera Raw works wonders! Check it out in Photoshop CS5!

Sharpen a Photo in Photoshop CS5 – High Pass Filter and Sharpen Tool

How to Sharpen a photograph in Photoshop using the High Pass Filter and the Sharpen Tool

Sharpening in Photoshop CS5 – Noise Reduction

How to Sharpen a photograph in Photoshop without creating excessive detail and increasing noise by using the noise reduction filter.

That’s all folks! I hope you find today’s tutorials interesting, and helpful. Stay tuned next week, we’ll be returning with more image correction basics!

Article publié pour la première fois le 08/10/2013


Tips and Techniques for effective water splash photography

Hello and welcome! In today’s article we’ll see 5 techniques for capturing water splashes with our dslr camera. Hope you will find the videos informative and help you understand better the techniques behind water high speed photography.

High-speed photography is the science of taking pictures of very fast phenomena. In 1948, the Society of Motion Picture and Television Engineers (SMPTE) defined high-speed photography as any set of photographs captured by a camera capable of 128 frames per second or greater, and of at least three consecutive frames. High-speed photography can be considered to be the opposite of time-lapse photography.

In common usage, high-speed photography may refer to either or both of the following meanings. The first is that the photograph itself may be taken in a way as to appear to freeze the motion, especially to reduce motion blur. The second is that a series of photographs may be taken at a high sampling frequency or frame rate. The first requires a sensor with good sensitivity and either a very good shuttering system or a very fast strobe light. The second requires some means of capturing successive frames, either with a mechanical device or by moving data off electronic sensors very quickly.

Other considerations for high-speed photographers are record length, reciprocity breakdown, and spatial resolution.

Lets get started!

Pink droplets monsters by Pink Sherbet Photography

Pink droplets monsters by Pink Sherbet Photography

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Article publié pour la première fois le 11/04/2014


Get Started with Origami Folding

Today we’ll be exploring origami basics. We’ll also see some fun projects for beginners you can start with, and close with a really cool (but very advanced ) video by the origami expert Tadashi Mori, making a paper dragon.

Let’s begin with a brief explanation of what is origami from Wikipedia!

Origami (折り紙?, from ori meaning “folding”, and kami meaning “paper”; kami changes to gami due to rendaku) is the traditional Japanese art of paper folding, which started in the 17th century AD at the latest and was popularized outside of Japan in the mid-1900s. It has since then evolved into a modern art form. The goal of this art is to transform a flat sheet of paper into a finished sculpture through folding and sculpting techniques, and as such the use of cuts or glue are not considered to be origami. Paper cutting and gluing is usually considered kirigami.

The number of basic origami folds is small, but they can be combined in a variety of ways to make intricate designs. The best known origami model is probably the Japanese paper crane. In general, these designs begin with a square sheet of paper whose sides may be different colors or prints. Traditional Japanese origami, which has been practiced since the Edo era (1603–1867), has often been less strict about these conventions, sometimes cutting the paper or using nonsquare shapes to start with.

The principles of origami are also being used in stentspackaging and other engineering structures.

And now let’s get started with some essential origami skills, before the real fun begins!

Essential Skills

1. Basic Origami Folds

2. Basic Origami Bases

Fun beginner projects

1. Origami Butterfly

2. Origami: Crane

3. Origami Rabbit

4. Origami Swan

Take it Further

5. Origami Fiery Dragon

Hope you enjoyed today’s creative projects! If you want more, you can always check out these amazing resources at Amazon:

Article publié pour la première fois le 19/10/2013

levels corrected

Image correction basics: Understanding Histograms and Photoshop Levels

Understanding to read an image histogram is a crucial skill in digital photography. It will not only help you capture better exposed images, but also correct badly exposed ones in Photoshop, Lightroom and other similar software. If you feel its complicated don’t just dive in and soon you will have a deeper understanding of what histograms are all about and how you can use them.

Before you start watching the videos let’s first get a clear idea of what histograms represent. Wikipedia has a very clear definition for that:

“An image histogram is a type of histogram that acts as a graphical representation of the tonal distribution in a digital image. It plots the number of pixels for each tonal value. By looking at the histogram for a specific image a viewer will be able to judge the entire tonal distribution at a glance.
Image histograms are present on many modern digital cameras. Photographers can use them as an aid to show the distribution of tones captured, and whether image detail has been lost to blown-out highlights or blacked-out shadows.

The horizontal axis of the graph represents the tonal variations, while the vertical axis represents the number of pixels in that particular tone.[1] The left side of the horizontal axis represents the black and dark areas, the middle represents medium grey and the right hand side represents light and pure white areas. The vertical axis represents the size of the area that is captured in each one of these zones. Thus, the histogram for a very dark image will have the majority of its data points on the left side and center of the graph. Conversely, the histogram for a very bright image with few dark areas and/or shadows will have most of its data points on the right side and center of the graph.”


Let’s get started!

Exposure – Let’s Get it Right!

Photography is fun, but getting the correct exposure sometimes can be challenging. Without correct exposure, the photos may be either too dark or too bright, and may fail to present the desirable depth of field to viewers. Setting the correct exposure for your camera should not be a daunting task. There are several useful tips mentioned in our video clip that will assist you in finding the desirable exposure settings on filmmaking or still photography.

Photography Histograms Explained

Histograms are the only way when shooting to get an accurate representation of your exposure. Without it, you could look at your screen and think your photo is exposed properly but then look at them on your computer later and realize everything was underexposed or overexposed.

How to Use The Histogram

Photoshop Histogram and Exposure by Jonathan Kingston

Photoshop – Levels And Histogram

In this tutorial we will be explaining what a Histogram is and how to use the Levels adjustment option. With Levels, you can adjust the highlights, midtones, and shadows of the image. By understanding how to read the Histogram, you will be able to make the correct adjustments to either all 3 primary colors (RGB) or to only the reds, greens or blues. Along the way we will be showing you some important tips and tricks on how to make your image look great.

Color Correction Using Photoshop Levels

How to easily do color correction using the Photoshop Levels command in 1 minute or less. How to improve color contrast for all color channels separately. Easy to understand Photoshop tutorial.

Hope you enjoyed this article and the videos, and now have a better understanding of histograms and how to use photoshop levels for basic image corrections! If you have any questions feel free to comment below!

Article publié pour la première fois le 05/03/2014

Vladimir Tomin→Paperworld Font

Get Started with Mixed Media Art Techniques

Hello folks! Unlike the previous two “get started” articles, this one doesn’t follow a course like structure. And that’s because it would be impossible!

After all Mixed media art can be produced by combining every art medium, and well not only that!

For those unfamiliar with the term let’s see how is defined in wikipedia:

Mixed media, in visual art, refers to an artwork in the making of which more than one medium has been employed.

Ok,  that doesn’t sound actually very enlightening. It continues:

Vladimir Tomin→Paperworld Font

Vladimir Tomin→Paperworld Font

There is an important distinction between “mixed-media” artworks and “multimedia art”. Mixed media tends to refer to a work of visual art that combines various traditionally distinctvisual art media. For example, a work on canvas that combines paint, ink, and collage could properly be called a “mixed media” work – but not a work of “multimedia art.” The term multimedia art implies a broader scope than mixed media, combining visual art with non-visual elements (such as recorded sound, for example) or with elements of the other arts (such as literature, drama, dance, motion graphics, music, or interactivity).

When creating a painted or photographed work using mixed media it is important to choose the layers carefully and allow enough drying time between the layers to ensure the final work will have integrity. If many different media are used it is equally important to choose a sturdy foundation upon which the different layers are imposed.

A phrase sometimes used in relationship to mixed media is, “Fat over lean.” In other words: “don’t start with oil paints. Plan to make them the final layer.”

Many effects can be achieved by using mixed media. Found objects can be used in conjunction with traditional artist media, such as paints and graphite, to express a meaning in the everyday life. In this manner, many different elements of art become more flexible than with traditional artist media.

So how can we actually get started with Mixed Media? Well glad you asked.

Just experiment and have fun! One of the secrets of creativity, is to always experiment and try out new things. By exploring new media, you open yourself to new creative avenues and possibilities.

And in order to help you get started i assembled a selection of 8 fun projects you might want to try, or just use as inspiration for your own experiments. (**updated on 6/9/13**)

Let’s enjoy them!

Aged Copper Techniques & Projects

Create Mixed Media “Scratch Artwork” with Cray-Pas Oil Pastels

Mixed Media Art – Triptych

Mixed Media – Faux Carnival Glass

Mixed Media Art Canvas – Steampunk Dragonflies

Mixed Media Art Canvas – Gothic Halloween

Mixed Media Art Technique – Watercolor and India Ink

Tree of Knowledge – Mixed Media Painting Process

That’s all folks! Hope you had fun watching the videos and are eager to start experimenting on your own! I’d be very happy hearing about your ideas and experiment results with mixed media!

Article publié pour la première fois le 06/09/2013


Get Started with Oil Painting Basics

Have you ever wanted to start painting with oils but didn’t know how to get started?

Did you visited an art supply store but got immediately overwhelmed by the choices in equipment and left?

In today’s article i gathered some resources for you to get you started! Starting with a few background information on the medium.

Although the history of tempera and related media in Europe indicates that oil painting was discovered there independently, there is evidence that oil painting was used earlier in Afghanistan. Surfaces like shields — both those used in tournaments and those hung as decorations — were more durable when painted in oil-based media than when painted in the traditional tempera paints.

Most Renaissance sources, in particular Vasari, credited northern European painters of the 15th century, and Jan van Eyck in particular, with the “invention” of painting with oil media on wood panel.

Jan Van Eyck - The Arnolfini Wedding

Jan Van Eyck – The Arnolfini Wedding

The artist might sketch an outline of their subject prior to applying pigment to the surface. “Pigment” may be any number of natural substances with color, such as sulphur for yellow or cobalt for blue. The pigment is mixed with oil, usually linseed oil but other oils may be used as well. The various oils dry differently, creating assorted effects.

Traditionally, artists mixed their own paints from raw pigments that they often ground themselves and medium. This made portability difficult and kept most painting activities confined to the studio. This changed in the late 1800s, when oil paint in tubes became widely available. Artists could mix colors quickly and easily, which enabled, for the first time, relatively convenient plein air (outdoor) painting (a common approach in French Impressionism).

The artist most often uses a brush to apply the paint. Brushes are made from a variety of fibers to create different effects. For example, brushes made with hog’s bristle might be used for bolder strokes and impasto textures. Fitch hair and mongoose hair brushes are fine and smooth, and thus answer well for portraits and detail work. Even more expensive are red sable brushes (weasel hair). The finest quality brushes are called kolinsky sable; these brush fibers are taken from the tail of the Siberian mink. This hair keeps a superfine point, has smooth handling, and good memory (it returns to its original point when lifted off the canvas); this is known to artists as a brush’s “snap.”

In the past few decades, many synthetic brushes have come on the market. These are very durable and can be quite good, as well as cost efficient. Floppy fibers with no snap, such as squirrel hair, are generally not used by oil painters. Sizes of brushes also are widely varied and used for different effects. For example, a “round” is a pointed brush used for detail work. “Flat” brushes are used to apply broad swaths of color. “Bright” is a flat with shorter brush hairs. “Filbert” is a flat with rounded corners. “Egbert” is a very long “Filbert” and is rare. The artist might also apply paint with a palette knife, which is a flat, metal blade. A palette knife may also be used to remove paint from the canvas when necessary. A variety of unconventional tools, such as rags, sponges, and cotton swabs, may be used. Some artists even paint with their fingers.

Most artists paint in layers, which is simply called “Indirect Painting”. The method was first perfected through an adaptation of the egg tempera painting technique and was applied by the Flemish painters in Northern Europe with pigments ground in linseed oil. More recently, this approach has been called the “Mixed Technique” or “Mixed Method”. The first coat (also called “underpainting”) is laid down, often painted with egg tempera or turpentine-thinned paint. This layer helps to “tone” the canvas and to cover the white of the gesso. Many artists use this layer to sketch out the composition. This first layer can be adjusted before moving forward, an advantage over the ‘cartooning’ method used in Fresco technique. After this layer dries, the artist might then proceed by painting a “mosaic” of color swatches, working from darkest to lightest. The borders of the colors are blended together when the “mosaic” is completed. This mosaic layer is then left to dry before applying details.

Artists in later periods, such as the impressionist era, often used this Wet-on-wet method more widely, blending the wet paint on the canvas without following the Renaissance-era approach of layering and glazing. This method is also called “alla prima”. This method was created due to the advent of painting outdoors, instead of inside a studio. While outside, an artist did not have the time to let each layer of paint dry before adding a new layer. Several contemporary artists use a blend of both techniques, which can add bold color (wet-on-wet) as well as the depth of layers through glazing.

When the image is finished and has dried for up to a year, an artist often seals the work with a layer of varnish that is typically made from damar gum crystals dissolved in turpentine. Such varnishes can be removed without disturbing the oil painting itself, to enable cleaning and conservation. Some contemporary artists decide not to varnish their work, preferring that the surfaces remain varnish-free.

So let’s get started with the fun stuff!


‘Painting Equipment Focus’ with Paul Taggart – Brushes for Oil Painting



Learning about Oil Paint Mediums with Katie Blackwell



How to Begin a Landscape Painting in Oils



Landscape Oil Painting : Preparing for Oil Painting



Paint With Oil. Learning basic value scales, setting up a palette, and mixing oil paints



Oil Painting Techniques : How to Mix Oil Paint Colors



Well i won’t lie to you, you might take sometime before you achieve Jan Van Eyck’s greatness and proficiency with the medium, but you will definitely have a lot of fun!

Articles’ Images are in the public domain because their copyright has expired, and are available through Wikimedia

This Articles’ text is licensed under the Creative Commons BY-SA License since it partially uses material from Wikipedia.

Article publié pour la première fois le 18/03/2014

Nadav Bagim→WonderLand9

All you wanted to know about the bokeh effect and was afraid to ask

Hello and welcome! In this video round up we’ll some techniques on creating the bokeh effect both with camera and in Photoshop before CS6 (since now Photoshop CS6 makes creating this effect a breeze). Hope you’ll enjoy the videos and have fun experimenting with this awesome effect!

Let’s first take a moment to define the term. Wikipedia has a lot on the term, but lets shrink it down to the most basics:

“The term comes from the Japanese word boke (暈け or ボケ), which means “blur” or “haze”, or boke-aji (ボケ味), the “blur quality”. The Japanese term boke is also used in the sense of a mental haze or senility

In photography, bokeh is the blur or the aesthetic quality of the blur, in out-of-focus areas of an image. Bokeh has been defined as “the way the lens renders out-of-focus points of light”.

However, differences in lens aberrations and aperture shape cause some lens designs to blur the image in a way that is pleasing to the eye, while others produce blurring that is unpleasant or distracting—”good” and “bad” bokeh, respectively. Bokeh occurs for parts of the scene that lie outside the depth of field. Photographers sometimes deliberately use a shallow focus technique to create images with prominent out-of-focus regions.
Bokeh is often most visible around small background highlights, such as specular reflections and light sources, which is why it is often associated with such areas. Bokeh is not limited to highlights; blur occurs in all out-of-focus regions of the image.

Though difficult to quantify, some lenses have subjectively more-pleasing out-of-focus areas. “Good” bokeh is especially important for macro lenses and long telephoto lenses, because they’re typically used in situations that produce shallow depth of field. Good bokeh is also important for medium telephoto lenses (typically 85–150 mm on 35 mm format). When used in portrait photography (for their “natural” perspective), the photographer usually wants a shallow depth of field, so that the subject stands out sharply against a blurred background.

Bokeh characteristics may be quantified by examining the image’s circle of confusion. In out-of-focus areas, each point of light becomes an image of the aperture, generally a more or less round disc. Depending how a lens is corrected for spherical aberration, the disc may be uniformly illuminated, brighter near the edge, or brighter near the center. Lenses that are poorly corrected for spherical aberration will show one kind of disc for out-of-focus points in front of the plane of focus, and a different kind for points behind. This may actually be desirable, as blur circles that are dimmer near the edges produce less-defined shapes which blend smoothly with the surrounding image. Lens manufacturers including NikonMinolta, and Sony make lenses designed with specific controls to change the rendering of the out-of-focus areas.”

Now let’s dive in and enjoy the videos and also see what we can do to achieve this effect ourselves!


WonderLand by Nadav Bagim

WonderLand by Nadav Bagim

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Article publié pour la première fois le 12/03/2014

n-i-g-h-t by Mikko Lagerstedt

Techniques for effective long exposure photography

Hello and welcome! In todays article we’ll see 5 techniques for long exposure photography both in day and night! You will find out several useful tips to improve your technique or get you up and running with long exposure photography if you haven’t tried it before!

For those unfamiliar with the term:

Long-exposure photography or time-exposure photography involves using a long-duration shutter speed to sharply capture the stationary elements of images while blurring, smearing, or obscuring the moving elements. The paths of moving light sources become clearly visible.

Long exposures are easiest to accomplish in low-light conditions, but can be done in brighter light using neutral density filters or specially designed cameras.

Let’s see what the experts advice us!

night by Mikko Lagerstedt

night by Mikko Lagerstedt

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Article publié pour la première fois le 24/09/2013